‘You cannot cross the sea merely by standing and staring at water.”
-Rabindranath Tagore
Shivering with my feet in the cold, pebbly sand, I was mesmerized by the orange glow of the early morning sunbeams dancing over the ocean waves. The cool morning breeze filled the air with excitement of a new ocean adventure. I did not fear the tumultuous bommies, nor the reef or creatures below, but rather the thought of wiping out in front of the East Coast Surf Champion, who was kind enough to take me for my first ride at Ditch Plains. Located on the Montauk peninsula of long island, Ditch Plains is a surf mecca famous for majestic cliffside views with the best year-round surf breaks on the East Coast, where most beaches are only blessed with magnificent surfable kahunas during hurricane season.
Surf’n and SUP’n (Stand-Up Paddleboarding) are exhilarating, physically demanding sports that demand core strength, stamina, balance and agility. The most common injuries are lacerations from loss of balance, shoulder dislocations, rotator cuff tears, back muscle strains, disc herniations, knee ligament and meniscal injuries. A simple slip could mean you will be couch surfing instead of the real deal for days, weeks, months or even years. Exercises that are paramount for injury risk reduction must establish a solid core foundation for optimal flexibility, mobility, and stability.
Take the time to learn proper technique from an experienced wave rider to improve technique, balance and understanding of the sea. Check weather and tides, and always be on the look-out for rip currents. Ideally, go with a buddy!
Don’t forget to let someone know when you head out, especially in big swells to keep your fear in check and boost your confidence. Oftentimes what you fear most is the key to set you free to reach your full potential!